Henry Barber (climber)

Henry Barber (born 1953) is an American rock climber known for his pioneering free solo ascents and his advocacy for clean climbing ethics in the 1970s. He popularized the practice of placing protection only where necessary, minimizing impact on the rock and promoting a lighter, faster style of climbing.

Barber began climbing in the early 1970s and quickly became a leading figure in the climbing community. He made numerous first ascents throughout North America and Europe, often employing bold and innovative techniques. He was particularly known for his free solo climbs, including significant routes on Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire and in Yosemite Valley.

Barber's commitment to clean climbing involved avoiding the use of pitons and other hardware that could damage the rock. He championed the use of nuts and other removable protection, helping to establish a new standard for environmental responsibility in climbing. He frequently lectured and presented slideshows about his climbing philosophy, influencing a generation of climbers to adopt a more sustainable approach.

Beyond his climbing achievements and ethical stance, Barber also traveled extensively, establishing routes and sharing his knowledge with climbers around the world. He contributed significantly to the development of climbing in areas like Australia and Europe. His impact on the sport extends beyond his individual accomplishments, as his influence shaped the ethical and stylistic evolution of rock climbing during a pivotal period.