Jean Schlumberger (jewelry designer)
Jean Schlumberger (June 24, 1907 – August 29, 1987) was a renowned French jewelry designer best known for his work at Tiffany & Co. His whimsical and nature-inspired designs, characterized by vibrant colors, intricate detailing, and sculptural forms, revolutionized the world of high jewelry.
Born in Mulhouse, France, to a wealthy textile manufacturing family, Schlumberger's early life was not directed toward jewelry design. He resisted entering the family business and instead pursued his passion for art. He initially worked as a window dresser for Elsa Schiaparelli in Paris, where he honed his creative skills and gained exposure to the world of fashion.
His jewelry career began in the late 1930s when he started creating costume jewelry using porcelain flowers. These pieces caught the attention of prominent figures, including Diana Vreeland. After serving in the French army during World War II, he moved to New York City and opened a private salon in 1946 with business partner Nicolas Bongard.
In 1956, Walter Hoving, then chairman of Tiffany & Co., invited Schlumberger to join the company. He was given his own workshop and complete creative freedom, a privilege rarely afforded to designers at the time. This partnership proved to be highly successful, and Schlumberger's designs became synonymous with Tiffany's elegance and prestige.
Schlumberger's inspirations stemmed from the natural world, particularly the sea. His brooches, necklaces, and bracelets often featured depictions of birds, fish, flowers, and other botanical and marine motifs. He utilized a variety of precious materials, including gold, platinum, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and other gemstones, to bring his visions to life. He was known for his use of paillonné enamel, a technique involving layering enamel over gold foil to create a luminous and vibrant effect.
Notable Schlumberger designs include the "Bird on a Rock" brooch, a platinum and gold bird perched atop a large morganite; the "Cooper" bracelet, a series of enameled X's on a gold band; and various jeweled interpretations of sea creatures and flowers. His work was favored by prominent socialites, actresses, and members of royalty, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor, and the Duchess of Windsor.
Jean Schlumberger's legacy continues to inspire jewelry designers today. His creations remain highly sought after by collectors and are considered iconic examples of 20th-century jewelry design. He is recognized for his contribution to elevating jewelry to an art form and for his lasting impact on the aesthetics of Tiffany & Co.