Pierre Gaspard (mountaineer)

Pierre Gaspard (1834 – 1915), known as "Le Père Gaspard" (Father Gaspard), was a French mountain guide who is best known for making the first ascent of La Meije, a prominent peak in the Dauphiné Alps, on August 8, 1877, with his son Pierre Gaspard, Jr., and Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau.

Gaspard lived his entire life in the village of Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans, a small village at the foot of La Meije. He was a skilled hunter and chamois poacher in his youth, a pursuit that led him to a deep knowledge of the local mountains. He began working as a guide, leading early tourists and climbers through the Dauphiné Alps.

Prior to his successful ascent of La Meije, the mountain was considered unclimbable due to its steep, glaciated faces and complex ridge system. Numerous attempts had been made, but all had failed. Gaspard's intimate knowledge of the mountain, combined with his climbing skills and perseverance, proved decisive.

The ascent of La Meije with de Castelnau marked a significant milestone in the history of alpinism, opening up a new era of challenging climbs. The route they pioneered is now known as the Gaspard route and remains a classic alpine climb.

Following the ascent of La Meije, Gaspard continued to work as a mountain guide for many years, leading numerous expeditions and sharing his knowledge of the Dauphiné Alps with others. He is considered a legend in the history of mountaineering and a symbol of the spirit of adventure. His legacy continues to inspire climbers today. He is buried in the cemetery of Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans.