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Doublet (clothing)

The doublet was a close-fitting, padded jacket worn by men from the late 14th century to the mid-17th century. It evolved from the pourpoint, a similar garment worn under armor. The doublet typically extended from the neck to the waist or slightly below, and was often worn over a shirt and under an outer coat or jerkin.

Construction and Features:

Doublets were made from a variety of materials, including wool, linen, silk, and leather. They were typically quilted or padded to provide warmth and structure. Key features included:

  • Close Fit: The doublet was tailored to fit the body closely, emphasizing the torso.
  • Sleeves: Sleeves could be long, short, detachable, or absent altogether. Variations in sleeve style were common throughout the period.
  • Collar: Collars varied widely, ranging from high standing collars to low, turned-down collars, often decorated with lace or embroidery.
  • Fastenings: Doublets were typically fastened with buttons, hooks and eyes, or laces. The number and spacing of fastenings varied depending on the style.
  • Waistline: The waistline could be straight, pointed, or rounded. Peplums, or short skirts, were sometimes attached to the bottom edge.
  • Decoration: Doublets were often elaborately decorated with embroidery, slashing, pinking, and other embellishments.

Evolution and Style:

The style of the doublet changed considerably over time. In the 15th century, doublets were often relatively short and simple. By the 16th century, they had become more elaborate, with padded shoulders, puffed sleeves, and decorative details. During the early 17th century, doublets became shorter and less padded, often worn with high-waisted breeches.

Social Significance:

The doublet was an essential part of men's fashion during its period of popularity. Its style, materials, and decoration reflected the wearer's social status and wealth. Elaborate doublets were often worn by members of the aristocracy and wealthy merchants, while simpler versions were worn by working-class men. The doublet's decline in popularity during the mid-17th century coincided with changes in men's fashion, including the adoption of looser-fitting garments.