Bliaut

The bliaut (also spelled bliaud) was a type of close-fitting, long-sleeved garment worn by both men and women of the European upper classes during the 11th and 12th centuries. It is primarily associated with France, England, and the Holy Roman Empire.

Description and Characteristics:

The bliaut was characterized by its distinctive fitted bodice and full skirt. Unlike the looser garments common in earlier periods, the bliaut was shaped to accentuate the wearer's figure. Key features include:

• Fitted Torso: The bodice was tailored to fit snugly around the chest and waist, often laced or sewn closed.
• Long, Fitted Sleeves: Sleeves were long and often tapered towards the wrist, sometimes extending into decorative cuffs or points that reached down over the hands.
• Full Skirt: The skirt was typically long, reaching to the ground or slightly above, and was often pleated or gored to add fullness.
• Fabric: Bliauts were usually made of expensive and luxurious fabrics such as silk, linen, or wool, often dyed in vibrant colors and possibly adorned with embroidery or other embellishments.
• Lacing: The bliaut often laced up the front, back, or sides, allowing for adjustment and a closer fit. This lacing is a significant feature distinguishing it from earlier tunics.
• Gores: The skirt's fullness was achieved through the use of gores, triangular pieces of fabric inserted into the skirt to widen it.

Social Significance:

The bliaut was a marker of status and wealth, signaling the wearer's belonging to the upper echelons of society. Its complex construction and expensive materials demonstrated the wearer's ability to afford skilled labor and luxury goods. The garment also reflected evolving fashion trends, representing a shift towards more form-fitting and decorative clothing.

Historical Context:

The bliaut emerged during a period of economic and social change in Europe, marked by increased trade and the growth of urban centers. These developments contributed to the availability of new fabrics and the rise of specialized crafts, facilitating the production and dissemination of the bliaut style. It predates the more elaborate gothic gowns that became popular in later centuries.

Decline:

The bliaut gradually fell out of fashion in the 13th century, replaced by other styles of dress that emphasized different silhouettes and decorative elements.