North Col

The North Col is a sharp-edged pass or saddle on the ridge connecting Mount Everest and Changtse in Tibet. It forms the head of the East Rongbuk Glacier. Reaching the North Col is a significant step in climbing Mount Everest from the north side, traditionally considered Camp IV on the North Ridge route.

The elevation of the North Col is approximately 7,020 meters (23,030 feet). The location is known for its harsh weather conditions, including extreme cold, high winds, and the constant threat of avalanches originating from the slopes above. The terrain is primarily ice and snow.

The North Col was first reached by George Mallory, Edward Oliver Wheeler, and Guy Bullock during the 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition. Its discovery provided a potential route to the summit, although not a simple one. It has since been a crucial staging point for numerous Everest expeditions attempting the climb from the Tibetan side.

The route to the North Col typically involves traversing the East Rongbuk Glacier and then ascending a steep ice slope using fixed ropes and crampons. The thin air at this altitude presents a significant physiological challenge to climbers.