The Western Lyskamm (German: Westlicher Lyskamm, Italian: Lyskamm Occidentale) is the higher of the two main peaks of the Lyskamm massif in the Pennine Alps. Located on the border between Switzerland (Canton of Valais) and Italy (Aosta Valley region), it is a prominent four-thousander and part of the extensive Monte Rosa group.
Geography and Elevation
With an elevation of 4,527 meters (14,852 feet) above sea level, the Western Lyskamm ranks among the highest mountains in the Alps. It is situated west of its slightly lower twin, the Eastern Lyskamm (4,479 m / 14,695 ft), with the two summits separated by a high saddle. The Lyskamm massif forms a significant part of the watershed between the Mattertal (leading to Zermatt) to the north and the Valle d'Ayas (leading to Gressoney) to the south. Its flanks are heavily glaciated, notably by the Grenzgletscher on the northern side and the Lysgletscher to the south. The mountain's name, "Lyskamm," translates to "comb of the Lys," referring to the long, serrated ridge above the Lys Glacier.
Mountaineering
The Western Lyskamm is a challenging mountaineering objective, renowned for its exposed, often corniced ridges and demanding conditions. It is frequently ascended as part of a traverse of the entire Lyskamm massif, linking both the Western and Eastern summits, or as an extension of the classic Monte Rosa traverse.
First Ascent
The first recorded ascent of the Western Lyskamm was made on August 19, 1861, by a party including Leslie Stephen, F.W. Jacomb, and the guides Jean-Baptiste Croz, Johann zum Tauwald, and Franz Andenmatten.
Routes
Common ascent routes typically involve starting from high-altitude huts such as the Gnifetti Hut (on the Italian side) or the Monte Rosa Hut (on the Swiss side). Climbers then traverse various glaciers to reach the summit ridge. The traverse between the two Lyskamm peaks is particularly famous but also highly exposed and requires significant technical skill and experience due to sharp cornices and potential for challenging ice or snow conditions. The mountain's steepness and the difficulty of its ridges have earned it the nickname "Menschenfresser" (man-eater) among some climbers.
See Also
- Eastern Lyskamm
- Lyskamm
- Monte Rosa
- Pennine Alps
- Four-thousanders of the Alps