Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, 19 kilometers (12 miles) southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. The mountain's name is derived from the Sanskrit word "Maha-Kala," meaning "Great Black," a reference to its dark, looming peak. Makalu is a standalone pyramid-shaped peak, considered one of the most challenging 8,000-meter peaks to climb due to its steep faces and technical climbing routes.
First successfully summited on May 15, 1955, by French climbers Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy as part of a French expedition led by Jean Franco, Makalu has since been climbed via several routes, though fatalities remain relatively high compared to other peaks of similar altitude. The standard route follows the southeast ridge and involves rock, ice, and mixed climbing, requiring advanced mountaineering skills.
Makalu lies within the Makalu Barun National Park in Nepal, a protected area established to conserve the region's biodiversity and pristine ecosystems. The area supports diverse flora and fauna, including endangered species such as the red panda and snow leopard.
Climbing seasons are typically spring (April–May) and autumn (October–November), with expeditions requiring permits from either the Government of Nepal or Chinese authorities, depending on the chosen approach.