Mackinaw cloth is a heavy, dense, water‑repellent woolen fabric that is traditionally woven in a tartan (plaid) pattern, often referred to as “buffalo plaid.” It is similar in construction to melton cloth but distinguished by its characteristic checked design. The material is known for its durability, warmth, and wind resistance, qualities that have made it popular for outerwear and blankets.
Composition and Characteristics
- Fiber content: 100 % virgin wool, heavily fulled and napped on both sides.
- Weight: Typically 24 oz (≈ 680 g/m²) or heavier, providing substantial insulation.
- Finish: The fabric is tightly woven and often treated to enhance water repellency.
- Pattern: Traditional versions feature a red‑on‑black or black‑on‑red tartan; contemporary variants may use a range of colors.
Historical Origin
The name derives from the Mackinac (Mackinaw) region of present‑day Michigan, a key fur‑trade hub in the 18th and early 19th centuries. In 1811, John Askin Jr., a British‑American trader operating at Fort St. Joseph near Mackinac, commissioned Métis women to sew 40 woolen greatcoats for the British Army. These coats were made from three‑point trade blankets supplied by Askin. Because blue blankets were insufficient, red and black‑on‑red tartan blankets were incorporated, establishing the distinctive plaid pattern associated with the fabric today. The long skirts of the original greatcoats proved impractical in deep snow; their removal led to the shorter, more functional Mackinaw jacket.
During the mid‑19th‑century logging boom in the Upper Midwest, the cloth became standard workwear for lumberjacks, who prized its warmth and water resistance. Mackinaw blankets were also traded along routes such as the Santa Fe Trail, where they were sometimes cited as contraband.
Modern Use
- Workwear and Outdoor Apparel: The fabric continues to be used for jackets, overshirts, and blankets intended for cold‑weather conditions, particularly among hunters, fishermen, and workers in cold climates.
- Military: In the 1930s the U.S. Army issued olive‑drab variants of the Mackinaw jacket for Jeep crews and other cold‑weather personnel.
- Casual Fashion: From the 1930s onward, commercial brands such as Pendleton popularized the plaid Mackinaw jacket as casual wear in the United States. By the 1950s and 1960s, the garment was embraced by surf culture, teenagers, and later by broader fashion trends.
- Sportswear: The sturdy, insulated nature of the fabric made it suitable for early sportswear, especially in hunting and outdoor recreational activities.
Cultural References
Mackinaw cloth has appeared in American popular culture, notably in film and music imagery of the mid‑20th century. Its iconic plaid pattern is often associated with the “lumberjack” aesthetic and has been referenced in songs, movies, and television shows depicting frontier or rural settings.
Related Terms
- Mackinaw jacket: The short coat originally cut from Mackinaw cloth.
- Buffalo plaid: A common name for the red‑and‑black tartan pattern used in Mackinaw fabric.
The information above is drawn from established historical and textile sources, including the Wikipedia entry on Mackinaw cloth and related scholarly references on North American trade and workwear.