John Ewbank (1926-1999) was a pioneering British rock climber known for his bold first ascents and his development of innovative climbing techniques and equipment in the 1950s and 1960s. He is particularly associated with climbing in North Wales and the Peak District.
Ewbank was a key figure in the transition from traditional, aid-reliant climbing to the free climbing ethic that emphasized using only hands and feet for upward progress. While he sometimes utilized aid when necessary, he consistently pushed the boundaries of what was considered possible without it.
His significant first ascents include routes on Dinas Cromlech and Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in Wales, many of which are still considered challenging climbs today. He also developed a grading system, initially based on the British Adjectival Grade, which later evolved to incorporate numerical grades, influencing the systems used in climbing worldwide.
Ewbank was also an accomplished climber outside of the UK, making ascents in the Alps and other mountain ranges. Beyond his climbing achievements, he was known for his strong personality and occasionally controversial views within the climbing community. His contributions significantly shaped the landscape of British rock climbing.